Log

The Hornelen mountain sea cliff is the highest in Europe. There were moderate strength downdrafts coming down off it, but nothing compared to the previous day's battering (on approach to Grindøy). Once past the wind shadows there was some great upwind sailing going west out of Frøysøen. Despite the rain I really enjoyed the sailing. A bit of a battle. You soon get used to being what initially feels like being overpowered, and it is only really the corners that are more difficult. The final shower is just before reaching Florø.

Being 'on expedition' is a very full way of living. Every day is an unknown and unfolds in a unique way. Sometimes the day is filled with spectacular scenery, others it is shrouded behind mist or low cloud. Plans form as the breeze fills and are reshaped as it wanes. Sometimes the sailing requires full attention, other times it allows the mind to wander.

And the support! Everywhere I land, through social media, messages, from all directions, borders on overwhelming. People are good. That's a conviction I had anyway, but is only reinforced by each passing day.

Louise and Morten finally got rid of me, and out on the open sea it was rough and windy. To limit exposure I headed up channels where possible, eventually ducking under the main bridge of the Atlantic road and quitting for the day at Vevang. Seemed like I didn't get far considering the effort (!) but content enough with day: nothing broke, a few more miles to the good, met nice people wherever I landed :) and found the 'bålhuset' (community fire-place house) to rest up in.

Light winds and the sailing has been a bit of a slog these last few days. It looked like a straightforward run up Trondheimsleia - inside the islands of Hitra and Smøla - but end of day 3 and I'm still 45k short of Kristiansund. Am running low or out of key supplies - coffee, oil for cooking fish, toothpaste, anything with vitamins, midge repellent (!), beer(!) - so am determined to put in a good effort tomorrow to reach significant civilisation.

A blog entry in the style of Long Standing Ambition!

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I'm rather disappointed with myself for missing the Hurtigruten ship MS Nordlys that yesterday called in at Bodø. MS Nordlys is the boat I sailed up to Kirkenes in, so it was a lost an opportunity to reacquaint with the crew and 'expedition team' who had become friends on the journey up. Drat it!

Yesterday was spent working. I still do the occasional day of normal work. Bodø library was a nice place to do that.

Been going a month and had my first day of really feeling a bit uninspired yesterday. Cold, grey, a bit of a slog to make progress, lots of cabins and signs of people - so none of the wilderness feel of Finnmark - but no spontaneous interactions and no Local Contacts to call by at. Plus I'd split the shaft of the paddle which as a result was slowly filling up with water. Little things like that can ruin your day. I headed to Lødingen daydreaming of pizza.

Given my previous good experiences with Tushingham Watersports Distribution I chose to approach them once again for gear to use on the Windsurf Round Europe expedition. They were nicely enthusiastic and together with Starboard and Severne provided all the windsurfing kit, and a SUP paddle.

Having used the gear for nearly a month here are a few thoughts. Please note that this post is probably of (potential!) interest to windsurfers rather than being of general appeal.

In the last few days two landmarks have been passed.

An otter provides a peaceful interlude during a stopping opportunity on the sail from Måsøya to Hammerfest. After a few hours wobbling downwind getting ashore is good for tired legs. Later in the day more breeze filled in and temperatures soared to 4ºC!

Written this morning

Long day yesterday but now round past mainland Europe's most northerly point: Nordkinn. Nordkapp itself, the often-cited most northerly point, is on an island - so no need for me to go round that.

I have to remind myself this from time to time. I'm always glad I do, though I can never entirely escape the nagging voice that says I should be sailing whenever I see a decent breeze.

The sail from Kongsfjord to Berlevag was slow, but the calm days are the best for seeing wildlife. Yesterday was the turn of porpoises and this minke whale (in the video below) to make the occasional toughness of the day to day seem trivial.

The marine mammals are a treat. But the birds are more regularly visible companions and every bit as delighting. There are the eider ducks of course. I'd never seen these, and they must be one of natures most beautiful creations.

Day 4 and first day not sailed. Reason: strong winds, heavy seas, hail, snow - take your pick!

First 'night' in Vardø was spent under the sail, until 3 o'clock when it blew away along with attached board. No damage done and second part of the night was more comfortable after rearrangements - despite intermittent horizontal hail and snow.