Log

After 2 years sailing and tweaking, this is how my expedition gear is set up on the final days (sniff) of the maritime stage. Each section is followed by pictures that explain each point. Click on images for captions.

Sulina to Danube Delta

A rough sail. Strong onshore wind. Very shallow water. First part going upwind and offshore but never deep enough water to be properly 'out back'. 2m+ waves increasingly breaking. As coast bends and course becomes more open decide to crash in and stay inshore until tip of 7nm long sand spit. Daggerboard creaking and jammed requires swim to retract. Very hectic. Take a few tumbles from white water sideswipes (a little explanation here).

Thanks to lots of help from Max in Odessa, official clearance was received to sail up into the Danube delta to complete customs and immigration procedures at the port of Vylkove.

Odessa to Vylkove takes three approach days of 25nm, 20nm, 20nm (all into the wind). Long days, but enjoyable, and with a nice expedition feel because this is a very empty coastline indeed. Sensible decision making and adequate water supply is needed.

Some extra days in Odessa whilst we find a resolution to the next border issue. The Ukraine-Romania border meets the Black Sea at the Danube delta and on the Ukrainian side there are (in theory) no "ports of entry/exit" anywhere near, so we are applying to Customs for a workaround.

Contacts Max (https://www.surflaguna.club/) and Alexandr are making the delay a real pleasure, and it is fascinating to be in this city: visiting the centre either by bike or public transport whilst residing in a more typical residential area.

Guide to pictures

[pic 1] Fisherman Vaxo totally rescued me after an exhausting effort to reach Batumi: shower and bed on board, and the best tasting salami and butter I can remember.

The next day's ferry to Ukraine was "full", or at least a ticket wasn't going to be sold at "short" notice, so I had a few days in Batumi waiting for the next one. When Vaxo took leave from his boat I also left, not wanting to impose.

Norway to Georgia by windsurfer: FINAL LEG of continuous track.
Sailed/paddled continuous, solo, unsupported.
Hopa: last port of exit in Turkey - to Batumi: port of entry in Georgia is 18nm.

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The wind is too light for upwind sailing to yield useful result. With continual pumping a marginally more respectable angle can be achieved, but it is exhausting and not a strategy for the long haul.

Today I arrived at Hopa – last port of Turkey large enough to have a coastguard and customs presence. Tomorrow I sign out and set off for the border with Georgia, now 10 miles to the north-east. More near-zero headwinds and a messy sea meant that today’s 8nm were tough. Clawing away with the techniques and resolve developed over the last 2 years is at times painful but delivers miles and ultimately satisfaction. Each day a little battle. Strategy for a few days ahead.

When the sun comes out it certainly has some heat now. Click to play this video update of the last few days...

15th April - End of Day - Akliman

Cut the corner of a concave bend of coast. Wavey later and short on daylight hours, but wind forecast reassuring. Grey and rainy. In the gloom, swells and strengthened breeze sail beyond the northernmost point on the Turkish coastline, feeling as free as the dolphins. Round the headland and into Akliman as dark falls. Gentle low land and nice protected beach, but the feel of the place is unwelcoming. There's a local crowd around a shop and an ongoing dispute through the night, with police in periodic attendance.

Sail from Eregli SC with company of Erdinc and once outside harbour am alone in the light fog. Paddle into earshot of the lighthouse and then beyond until its lonely call sounds faint. Wind comes in on the nose for some miles sailed. By landing time am well positioned to slip into a previously identified cove. A truly beautiful spot. Many wild birds, whose songs do not appear dulled by the abundant plastic trash. My spirits though are slightly dimmed: awe for nature accompanied by regret for the lost pristine-ness of natural spaces.

A few days into the Black Sea and a wealth of experiences lived already. Time and energy only allowing for this no frills update:

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Bosphorus pt 2. Escort from the coastguard and Edhem: a good wind and the current less fierce where the Strait is a little wider. Out and into the Black Sea. For the next 800 miles it will be "land on my right" (which is the great title from a for me inspiring book!)

It will soon be two years that I have been windsurfing round Europe. Before that I circumnavigated Britain, via Ireland and Northern Ireland. I’ve met many people.

The family of the sea have of course been accepting. The nationality of a seafarer matters little - because the sea would drown any. Every seafarer knows that the sea is bigger than they are. From this knowledge comes unity.

The return to Turkey was on 15th March and the next day I slipped across the entrance of the Bosphorus to Istanbul Sailing Club. With no wind happening, and a strong current in the Strait to contend with, the next days were spent sightseeing and being very well looked after by all at Tuzla Sailing Club (a few miles to the south).

Although in theory waiting for southerly wind, a northerly eventually showed up on the forecast, so we confirmed the day with the coastguard, and got back to the eating nice Turkish food.

I received a replacement Stohlquist Shift drysuit yesterday, which means I am all set for sailing again in a few weeks time. Thank you to Stohlquist, and here are a few snaps (one per coastline) from the journey.

Since the beginning of this project my target had been to reach Russia. I’m relaxed about the sailing, eating, sleeping, and people - that will be fine. But borders and visas unsettle me more. The required authorizations are time consuming and sometimes costly to attain. And still uncertainties remain. They impinge upon appreciation of the day to day, like clouds that won’t clear.