Norway

Been going a month and had my first day of really feeling a bit uninspired yesterday. Cold, grey, a bit of a slog to make progress, lots of cabins and signs of people - so none of the wilderness feel of Finnmark - but no spontaneous interactions and no Local Contacts to call by at. Plus I'd split the shaft of the paddle which as a result was slowly filling up with water. Little things like that can ruin your day. I headed to Lødingen daydreaming of pizza.

In the last few days two landmarks have been passed.

An otter provides a peaceful interlude during a stopping opportunity on the sail from Måsøya to Hammerfest. After a few hours wobbling downwind getting ashore is good for tired legs. Later in the day more breeze filled in and temperatures soared to 4ºC!

Written this morning

Long day yesterday but now round past mainland Europe's most northerly point: Nordkinn. Nordkapp itself, the often-cited most northerly point, is on an island - so no need for me to go round that.

I have to remind myself this from time to time. I'm always glad I do, though I can never entirely escape the nagging voice that says I should be sailing whenever I see a decent breeze.

The sail from Kongsfjord to Berlevag was slow, but the calm days are the best for seeing wildlife. Yesterday was the turn of porpoises and this minke whale (in the video below) to make the occasional toughness of the day to day seem trivial.

The marine mammals are a treat. But the birds are more regularly visible companions and every bit as delighting. There are the eider ducks of course. I'd never seen these, and they must be one of natures most beautiful creations.

Day 4 and first day not sailed. Reason: strong winds, heavy seas, hail, snow - take your pick!

First 'night' in Vardø was spent under the sail, until 3 o'clock when it blew away along with attached board. No damage done and second part of the night was more comfortable after rearrangements - despite intermittent horizontal hail and snow.

Every journey starts with a step. Arrival at Kobbvoegen having set out from Grense Jakobselv earlier in the day. Thank you to the Norwegian army for help getting to the border.

A short post this. Tomorrow I head to the border with Russia to start the journey round Europe. There has been a slight delay, partly caused by the road to the start point being closed, partly by calm conditions, and partly by a desire to give Spring a few days longer to arrive.

But my excuses have now run out. The Norwegian army are sorting out the transport issue and there is a decent northerly breeze due.

So, tomorrow is the official start day. As of early afternoon expect to see the tracker making progress.

My journey north aboard the Hurtigruten ship MS Nordlys ends tomorrow, with departure in Kirkenes. It's a shame really as I was just settling in, and the weather has been good, and the scenery spectacular.

It's been a holiday, and a full board exceedingly comfortable one at that. I'd do it again at the drop of a hat.

But that was never the deal. Now comes the hard part: windsurfing back.