These butterflies are from the hill in Bulgaria where I hid from the border police.

The morning surrounded by nature opened my heart. It brought back memories of hot summer days, grasshopper catching, and the deep sheen of burnet moths. I realised how grateful I am for a childhood rich in empty time playing in nature. The parental effort for this education: my mum nearby, reading a book in the sun.

Early days of the cycle back through Europe are unfolding with a meandering route. So far I have meandered south-west for about 400km. The Greek Aegean coast is not a direct route to Norway, but friends are here, and it allows a few days whilst a blast of summer heat cooks the land.

I am staying with Thomas, Stavroula and family from Stonero at Lake Volvi: enjoying fine company, home cooking, and some very fun foil windsurfing.

Lots to tell (Norwegians, please be sure to read to the end):

Expedition board

The board stays proudly displayed in Surf Shop Burgas. I had been thinking of sending it back to the UK, but the National Maritime Museum turned down my offer, and I was never 100% easy with the carbon footprint involved with sending it back to sit in a shed somewhere anyway. Better all round this way and there is even a chance it will sail again.

I've nothing really planned for Bulgaria. Summer conditions. Easy sailing. No scheduled stops before 'the end'. Enough experience to know I'll complete this last bit, and would do so Monty Python 'Black Knight' style if required... The final days will perhaps be uneventful; sailed with a sense of 'seen it all before'. Accumulated fatigue having numbed mind as well as body.

I have reached Burgas, Bulgaria. The windsurf part of windsurf round Europe is completed. The last days have had added significance. Sharing here the last major headland of the journey - Cape Emine.

Body is tired. Arms and fingers say the time is right to hang up the harness, and stow the paddle, for a while. Feeling tearfully grateful to life, our planet, all the many many people who have supported this unsupported voyage.

After 2 years sailing and tweaking, this is how my expedition gear is set up on the final days (sniff) of the maritime stage. Each section is followed by pictures that explain each point. Click on images for captions.

Sulina to Danube Delta

A rough sail. Strong onshore wind. Very shallow water. First part going upwind and offshore but never deep enough water to be properly 'out back'. 2m+ waves increasingly breaking. As coast bends and course becomes more open decide to crash in and stay inshore until tip of 7nm long sand spit. Daggerboard creaking and jammed requires swim to retract. Very hectic. Take a few tumbles from white water sideswipes (a little explanation here).

Thanks to lots of help from Max in Odessa, official clearance was received to sail up into the Danube delta to complete customs and immigration procedures at the port of Vylkove.

Odessa to Vylkove takes three approach days of 25nm, 20nm, 20nm (all into the wind). Long days, but enjoyable, and with a nice expedition feel because this is a very empty coastline indeed. Sensible decision making and adequate water supply is needed.

Some extra days in Odessa whilst we find a resolution to the next border issue. The Ukraine-Romania border meets the Black Sea at the Danube delta and on the Ukrainian side there are (in theory) no "ports of entry/exit" anywhere near, so we are applying to Customs for a workaround.

Contacts Max (https://www.surflaguna.club/) and Alexandr are making the delay a real pleasure, and it is fascinating to be in this city: visiting the centre either by bike or public transport whilst residing in a more typical residential area.

Guide to pictures

[pic 1] Fisherman Vaxo totally rescued me after an exhausting effort to reach Batumi: shower and bed on board, and the best tasting salami and butter I can remember.

The next day's ferry to Ukraine was "full", or at least a ticket wasn't going to be sold at "short" notice, so I had a few days in Batumi waiting for the next one. When Vaxo took leave from his boat I also left, not wanting to impose.